Where to Eat, Stay, and What to See
“An idyllic paradise… but are we becoming a Hampton?” reads the cover of a recent issue of the Montecito Journal. It is a valid question as the seaside haven, crown jewel of the California region known as the American Riviera (aka Santa Barbara), has taken yet another turn in the spotlight thanks to Meghan Markle and her new Netflix series. (With Love, Meghan was filmed in an $8 million farmhouse.) While the Duke and Duchess of Sussex may have given this 8,400-person hamlet a major boost in name recognition over the past few years, they are hardly the first celebrities to move in. Oprah has been here for decades, and Hollywood royals like Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, and Rob Lowe have long sought (more discreet) refuge in these hills.
Despite Montecito’s A-list glitz, it has mostly retained its small town vibe—albeit with a Rosewood and an incoming Nobu—with plenty of local shops and quaint restaurants, and a hearty helping of charm. This is the sort of place where you will see kids riding bikes to ice cream shops. Actress Jane Lynch said it best. “This is the most community I’ve ever had in my life,” she told T&C last September. “We all know each other. We know each other’s dogs!”
Whether you’re craving a short respite from L.A.—which is just 80 miles away—or even a weeklong summer escape, here is the T&C guide to Montecito, from where to stay to where you might run into a Sussex.
Where to Stay
San Ysidro Ranch.
For high-end Montecito hotels, there are two main choices differentiated most starkly by their locales. First, there is San Ysidro Ranch, a secluded boutique hotel in the hills set against the Santa Ynez Mountains, with just 38 bungalow-style cottages, each one with its own personality. This is where JFK and Jackie spent their honeymoon and where celebrities to this day retreat for a private getaway. The fact that the resort is in Montecito is almost beside the point—you won’t want to leave the garden-laden grounds. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, be sure to book a table at Stonehouse, an acclaimed restaurant with contemporary, but very elevated, menu that sources produce from the property’s own gardens.
Rosewood Miramar Beach.
On the ocean-facing side of Montecito, situated on a stretch of prime Santa Barbara shoreline, is the Rosewood Miramar Beach. It’s new, glossy, big, and not at all low-key, with shops like Bottega Veneta and Loro Piana dotting the grounds and interiors that feel more Cape Cod than cottagecore. The hotel has eight restaurants, ranging from a casual scoop shop to omakase to Caruso’s, whose Californian-meets-Italian cuisine earned it a Michelin star. There are also two pools and an extensive spa. If that’s not enough, you’re walking distance from Coast Village Road, Montecito’s main shopping street.
Also nearby and on the beach is the Four Seasons Biltmore, which used to be another luxe option for Montecito visitors until it closed for renovation in 2020. It’s scheduled to finally open up again this year, with a facelift and a new Nobu (of course!).
Where to Eat
Meghan Markle was photographed lunching with Serena Williams last summer at Tre Lune, a popular restaurant for celeb sightings.
Montecito’s dining scene rivals cities triple its size—every season there seems to be a slew of new openings on Coast Village Road. Start the day with breakfast at Jeannine’s (you can’t miss those signature pink umbrellas) and be sure to save room for the baked goods—scones, croissants, muffins—after brunch. But come early: both seating and pastries are first come, first served.
Down Coast Village you’ll find the Montecito Country Mart, a charming collection of shops and restaurants that rivals the Brentwood version. Fuel up with breakfast or lunch at Merci, a French cafe with a curated menu of pastries, quiches, and fresh salads and sandwiches. Then grab a vanilla latte at Caffe Luxxe, another West L.A. import, and a loaf to-go at Oat Bakery, a gluten-lover’s haven.
In Upper Village, another shopping area up San Ysidro Road, you can find almost anything at Pierre Lafond, a sort of everything store that is a market, smoothie bar, coffee shop, deli, and restaurant in one. It has been in Montecito for 55 years and remains a community tentpole—and prime people-watching locale. Upper Village is also home to the Montecito Coffee Shop, another old school venue that is great for a casual lunch (athleisure encouraged).
Restaurant options only balloon as the day goes on. Honor Bar, part of the Hillstone Group, serves juicy burgers and French dip all day, often with a long but worthwhile wait time (no reservations). Bettina, a pizza spot located in the Country Mart, is perfect for a shopping break nosh and Clark’s Montecito, which is new to town (it has sister locations in Aspen and Texas) serves up a Santa Barbara-friendly menu of oysters, crudo, fresh fish, and lobster rolls.
For fancier fare, there is the old school steakhouse Lucky’s for ice cold martinis, hefty chops, and a killer dover sole, and the relatively new Bar Lou, a Mediterranean bar and bistro from the team behind Little Dom’s in Los Feliz that is heavy on the seafood, as well as French staples like steak au poivre. And you can’t forget Tre Lune, an Italian joint the celebrities love—Meghan Markle is a regular. For a nightcap, you can do drinks at the Rosewood but we’re partial to a scoop of Serious Dark Chocolate or Honey Lavender ice cream at Rori’s.
Where to Shop
Of course there is a Goop store in Montecito.
As you may have gathered, much of Montecito is structured around shopping areas—Coast Village Road, the Montecito Country Mart, Upper Village—and there is no shortage of curated boutiques to browse within each. Whatever brand you can think of to complete your Nancy Meyers-meets-Brentwood mom aesthetic you will undoubtedly find here. In the Country Mart, you’ll find floral dresses and silks at Doên, upscale swimwear at Malia Mills, yoga-to-lunch-to-beach totes at Clare V., and men’s resort wear at Orlebar Brown. Jenni Kayne sells her signature cashmere neutrals from her cedar-scented shop in Upper Village and has a home store nearby, too, stocked with very on-brand plush white couches, light-stained wood furniture, and alpaca throws. And most of the big name luxury brands are at the Rosewood: along with the aforementioned Loro Piana and Bottega Veneta boutiques, there is also Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, the Webster, and a Goop store.
Outside of the designer wares, go to Emily Joubert for home goods and garden accoutrements, plus a surprisingly lovely array of jewelry; Clic for brightly colored clothes and accessories; Wendy Foster, which stocks brands like Nili Lotan and Vince, along with lesser known labels; and K. Frank for laid-back, contemporary attire from the likes of Zimmermann, A.L.C., and Frame.
For specialty stores, check out the Tennis Shop of Montecito for expert advice on racquets and shoes, an extensive collection of clothing (and pickleball gear, too, if that’s more your thing). The 30-year-old William Layman Antiques is where Montecito residents pick up their most unique homewares. And for kids, Poppy at the Country Mart has a collection of outfits so adorable you’ll be asking for them in your own size; Toy Crazy is just steps away.
Finally, the bookstores: Tecolote Book Shop is the go-to in Montecito proper, located in Upper Village. And now there’s Godmothers in nearby Summerland. The sleek space, the brainchild of literary agent Jennifer Rudolph Walsh and cosmetics entrepreneur Victoria Jackson, opened last fall with a star-studded party.
What (Else) to Do
Don’t skip Montecito’s beaches.
Yes, the dining and the shopping are world-class, but don’t forget the reason everyone descends on this tiny town in the first place: the scenery. Montecito rarely feels too warm and only ever gets cool enough for a lightweight Herno. The beaches are long and white, the hiking trails are ample and smell like eucalyptus, and it’s not unusual to see horses ambling through mountain paths.
The Montecito beaches really are a must. If you’re staying at the Rosewood, simply step outside your hotel. Otherwise, we love Butterfly Beach and Hammond’s Beach, which stretch parallel to Coast Village Road. For hiking, the Cold Spring or San Ysidro trails are among the best, though you can still get plenty of steps in simply walking up paved streets like San Ysidro Road.
Prince Harry, in a 2022 match at the Santa Barbara Polo Club.
For daytime activities, don’t miss the Montecito Farmers Market, which is open every Friday year round on Coast Village Road, and where you’ll find plenty of local produce and baked goods. If you need to entertain the kids (or even just yourself), head to Lotusland, Montecito’s botanical garden, which spans more than 37 acres.
And, from spring to early fall, make like a British royal and catch a polo match at the Santa Barbara Polo and Racquet Club—fascinators are optional, a spritz in hand is not.
Annie Goldsmith is the news writer for Town & Country, where she covers culture, politics, style, and the British royal family.
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