July 20, 2024

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The Ultimate Paris Travel Guide, As Curated By Vogue Editors

20 min read

There are plenty of Paris travel guides in existence: France, after all, is the most-visited country in the world, and its capital city is the main reason why: with world-class museums, wide open boulevards, Belle Epoque architecture, and distinct cuisine, it’s known not just as the cultural capital of Europe, but perhaps the world.

Yet it’s not just the reality of Paris that draws you in—it’s the fantasy. The City of Light, after all, has been romanticized for most of us since birth, in books by Victor Hugo and Ernest Hemingway, movies like An American in Paris and Moulin Rouge, and through photographers like Brassaï and Henri Cartier Bresson.

And while the majority of travelers know the iconic tourist spots of Paris—the Eiffel Tower! The Louvre! Notre Dame!—the spots that encompass the soul of the city that so many of us seek are harder to find. With that in mind, Vogue asked its editors where they stay eat, shop, and visit across the arrondissements.

Some answers are for the classicists—you can’t go wrong enjoying an evening of soufflé and a night at the ballet. Others are for those seeking alternative activities, from five Euro dumplings to vintage shops that will “make you look Emmanuelle Seigner straight out of Frantic,” as one fashion writer puts it. (Speaking of vintage: we have a whole guide to the city’s best vintage stores, here.)

Below, find Vogue’s Paris travel guide.

Where to Stay

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The Cheval Blanc in Paris.Photo: Alexandre Tabast

​​“The feel is 1930s meets 1970s, cool elegance with a bit of grooviness,” Vogue wrote of the new Cheval Blanc Paris, which opened this September. The five-star hotel, which is owned by LVMH, boasts four restaurants, a Dior spa, and grand suites with stunning views of the Seine. —Elise Taylor, living writer

Hotel Duc De Saint Simon is the perfect, petit hotel with all the elegant chintz you want tucked in a perfect little courtyard in the 6eme. —Chloe Malle, contributing editor

The Bulgari feels more like a discreet modernist apartment building than its enormous neighbors, and would be preferable for anyone who prefers their room service menu Italian rather than French. The hotel gym (with pool and spa) is one of the best in the city. —Mark Guiducci, creative editorial director

By sheer luck and her connections, my friend got us a stay at this ultra-luxurious hotel. You feel like a celebrity as soon as you walk through its doors. The service was impeccable, and the rooms evoke classic French luxury. Some of the rooms have balconies looking onto the Eiffel Tower. What more could you ask for? —Christian Allaire, fashion and style writer

With spacious, Parisian apartment-style suites and elegant marble bathrooms, Hôtel Elysia is built for a comfortable night’s sleep. Rooms on the top floor are so incredibly quiet, you’ll forget you’re a stone’s throw away from the Champs-Élysées. —Jasmine Contomichalos, senior experiences editor

On the middle of Avenue Kléber in the 16th arrondissement is the romantic and five-star Hotel Raphael. The interiors are adorned in a mixture of Louis XVI and Belle Epoque decor, creating an all-encompassing aura of grandeur that can only exist in Paris. —Elise Taylor

The former Louvre Post Office now houses Madame Rêve, a hotel that opened in fall 2021. Its 82 rooms offer stunning views over the city, and from the roof (where sunrise yoga sessions take place), you can see the Eiffel Tower. The interior design scheme—a soothing combination of goldenrod yellow, burgundy, and wood—extends into the downstairs restaurant and cocktail bar, where the feeling is cozy even with the chandeliers and high ceilings. The hotel is ideally located near the Louvre and an easy walk into the Marais. For breakfast, pick up pastries a couple of blocks away at Stohrer, a patisserie that’s been around since 1730. —Ella Riley Adams, contributor

Martin Brudnizki designed this fashionably maximalist hotel in Le Marais, where each room comes with a tapestry-covered bed, and closets are lined with lobster and paisley print wallpaper. (The indoor pool, with its painted ceiling, is among the most beautiful I’ve seen.) Make sure to book a dinner at Boulabe, which is helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Assaf Granit. —Elise Taylor

In Pigalle is the new Soho House, set over five floors in a 19th-century apartment building that once was home to artist Jean Cocteau. While so much of Paris celebrates its grandiose architectural history, the Soho House takes a different approach, basing its design off of the playful work of Jean Royere and Santo Sospir, Cocteau’s colorful villa in Cap de Ferrat. —Elise Taylor

It is pretty easy to fall in love with Château Voltaire, the newish and gorgeously appointed hotel on Paris’s Rue St. Roch, and within glass-shattering distance of a soprano’s aria at the Opera Garnier. —Mark Holgate, fashion features director

The Ritz Paris is one of the most famous hotels in the world—if not the most famous. And with good reason: stepping inside is like stepping inside another, grander era, with its Louis XV furnishings, rare books, canopied beds, and gilded chandeliers. Afternoon tea at Salon Proust is a must, as is a drink at the famed Bar Hemingway. —Elise Taylor

19 Avenue Kléber in the 16th has lived many lives: First, it once belonged to Queen Isabella II of Spain, who resided there after her exile. Then, it became Hotel Majestic, where George Gershwin wrote An American in Paris, before becoming the Ministry of Defense. Its latest journey? Housing the Peninsula Paris, which honors its history-rich atmosphere while embracing modern touches. When I stayed there this summer, I was in awe of the efficient amenities and services—an in-room iPad allows you to submit an array of requests that will be executed within minutes—as well as the romantic lodgings: Every morning, I could open my window to gaze upon a Beau Arts balcony. It’s perfect for the traveler in need of all the modern bells and whistles, but who still wants to indulge in the old-school Paris fantasy. —Elise Taylor

Situated on a quiet corner in the 2nd arrondissement, Hotel du Sentier feels like your home away from home. The understated yet utterly chic interiors make every room feel bright and airy. Of course, the sweeping views of the city’s skyline don’t hurt either. On the first floor, a bistro serves traditional French fare from dawn to dusk—meaning that sourcing an oat milk latte or a bottle of Sancerre couldn’t be more convenient. —Elisée Browchuk, experiences, production, and marketing manager

The St. James Hotel in the 16th was absolute heaven on earth on a recent visit, which I wrote about here—a perfect calm counterpoint to the rest of the bustling and busy city. And its Michelin-starred restaurant, Bellefuille, shouldn’t be missed (whether you’re staying here or somewhere else in Paris). —Corey Seymour, senior editor

This hotel, which opened last year, is just a short stroll from the beautiful Boulevard Saint-Germain, in the 6th arrondissement. The quaint, 34-room hotel is perfect for those looking for quiet charm. The stylish, tastefully decorated rooms will have you feeling like you’re visiting a stylish local’s apartment. —Christian Allaire, senior fashion and style writer

Tucked behind the Luxembourg Gardens in the heart of St Germain des Pres, this really is a hotel for serious travelers. With Fabrizio Casiraghi’s elegant interiors in sumptuous shades of cream and Diptyque toiletries, I was ready to move in. —Chloe Malle

Blueground

I’m currently staying in a Blueground apartment on the Marche Saint Honore, and honestly? It’s perfect. –Mark Guiducci

Where to Eat: The Best Restaurants, Cafés & More

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Photo: Getty Images

You can’t go to Paris and not eat soufflé. Le Soufflé is an old-world kind of place tucked away on the Rue du Mont Thabor, which is a great street for restaurants. I like to go at lunch, when they have a special of starter salad, savory soufflé, and dessert soufflé. Decadent and delicious! —Nicole Phelps, global director of Vogue Runway

Le Petit Lutetia

I had the perfect Parisian lunch with one of my best friends at Le Petit Lutetia, a brasserie by Jean-Louis Costes. Our definition of perfect, by the way? A place that serves a healthy pour of red wine and excellent steak frites, among a fashionable crowd that provides excellent people-watching. Elise Taylor

Chez Janou is your quintessential Parisian bistro. Go for the escargot but stay for the funky decor and the restaurant’s lively staff who will treat you like family. My number one tip? Save room for the chocolate mousse. —Taylor Lashley, social media manager

Le Voltaire

A restaurant on the Left Bank quay of the same name, Le Voltaire has kept high standards since it was converted from a former stables in the 19th century. Many of the tables are divided by carved wooden panels which recall its earlier equine function, and make it ideal for discreet conversation. —Mark Guiducci

Le Recamier is your must stop for soufflés and only soufflés! They don’t take reservations so it’s best to go for a latish lunch around 1:30 p.m. Go for a walk in the Jardin du Luxembourg and then have lunch at Recamier and then wander through Le Bon Marché, especially their incredible food hall La Grande Epicerie. —Chloe Malle

Lapérouse

LVMH scion Antoine Arnault is a minority investor in Lapérouse, which should tell you all you need to know about the crowd at the Left Bank restaurant that takes up multiple gilded floors in an 18th-century mansion. Stepping inside feels like stepping back in time: the interiors are Belle Époque influenced, and dishes are served on Bernardaud china. Do a 10:30 p.m. reservation if you want to dine, as the place quickly descends into a party. —Elise Taylor

Lafayette’s, helmed by the famed Chef Mory Sacko, is located just steps from rue Saint Honoré and has quickly become one of the city’s most coveted reservations for a reason. Known for gathering a stylish crowd around the table, Moma Group’s latest venture transports you back to a bygone era and effortlessly combines the best of innovative cuisine with Parisian grandeur. I recommend ordering the Sole grillée with the French mac and cheese à la truffe, but everything on the menu will blow you away! -Vivienne Letalon, Experiences Associate

Girafe is one of Paris’s most iconic restaurants. The view of the Eiffel Tower is so close, it feels like you can almost touch it. Inside, minimalist decor meets traditional Paris style, creating an effortlessly cool modern ambiance. From the elevated menu to the elegant design, this restaurant should be top of your list. —Elisée Browchuk

Wild and the Moon

What is a vegan to do in the land of excellent dairy? The original Marais juice bar now has outposts all over the city, and is a staple for any health nut visiting Paris. —Mark Guiducci

La Petite Bohème

Nestled in the middle of the 2nd arrondissement, just off the Rue du Louvre, La Petite Bohème is the perfect stop between shows for a plate of manchego or a glass of Rioja. Don’t miss the patatas bravas, a specialty of the owner. —Chloe Malle

There’s simply no better place in town to get a macaron. —Elise Taylor

A trip to Paris isn’t complete without an afternoon spent at Café de Flore. This picturesque establishment on the corner of Boulevard Saint Germain is perfect for spotting the latest street-style fashions and catching up with a friend over a light lunch. —Elisée Browchuk

The name of Clown Bar is quite literal: atop the bar are tiles of the circus performers, as well as a quintessential Art Nouveau-era painted ceiling. But rest assured the bistro, founded by chef Sota Atsumi, takes its culinary pursuits quite seriously. Order a natural wine and some tartare de boeuf. —Elise Taylor

Cafe Breizh is a sleek but unfussy creperie with excellent buckwheat crêpe complète. —Chloe Malle

Fromagerie Barthelemy and Marie-Anne Cantin

Fromagerie Barthelemy and Marie-Anne Cantin are two spectacular cheese shops in the 7eme. There is heated debate as to which one is better but I feel it’s totally acceptable to patronize both. —Chloe Malle

Chez Prune

I had never been to Paris before until this year but I randomly ended up staying next to the most amazing and low-key locally famed restaurant called Chez Prune! I love it there. They had this insane slab of beef that made me want to never give up meat. —Liana Satenstein, contributing editor

Le Bon Georges is a classic, quaint Parisian bistro in Pigalle. I’d tell you what to order—but the menu changes seasonally (everything is updated daily on a chalkboard) and they recommend you choose your meal around the wine. Who could argue with that? —Elise Taylor

Le Chateaubriand has the kind of unassuming interior you might associate with any number of brasseries in Paris, except that its stripped-down simplicity makes it just that little bit more hip. This is a place where it feels like very little (the waiters uniforms, or lack of, the decor) is getting in the way of the food, which is fresh, seasonal, and delightfully inventive. The food here is assured and interesting, and the restaurant feels like a scene without being pretentious or formal. For a final course we were mandated to eat the entire concoction in one bite—without being told what it was—a real adventure in a dish. -Chloe Schama, Senior Editor

Raviolis Nord-Est

My greatest weakness is Chinese food, so if I need a break from meat-heavy Gallic cuisine, I always head east to one of the amazing Sichuanese or Cantonese restaurants that line the Rue de Belleville outside the metro station. And for a quick pitstop, there’s nowhere better than Raviolis Nord-Est, just around the corner from Les Halles, where you can get a plate of 10 fresh dumplings for five euros, steamed or grilled to your liking. Another place I love is Les Enfants du Marché, situated in the bustling, must-visit Enfants Rouges covered market and offering elevated, Japanese-inflected riffs on classic French dishes. After that, all you need is some fresh cherries from one of the neighboring stalls for dessert, and you’re good to go. —Liam Hess, living editor

On a recent trip to Paris, my husband and I ate at Comice in the 16th—a neighborhood everyone kept telling me was an unlikely location for such a chic and assured restaurant. It honestly doesn’t matter; everything about Comice is perfect once you’re inside its doors. The tasting menu was a sequence of delights, with a finely choreographed set of wine pairings delivered with casual elan. Run by a French Canadian husband and wife team, this has the feel of a family restaurant elevated to the highest level. Everything was a delight. —Chloe Schama

This bespoke cocktail bar crafts unique drinks for every guest. Yes, even the ones that are always hard to please. Bisou mixologists create one-of-a-kind libations based on individual, in-the-moment cravings using the freshest ingredients. Á votre santé! —Elisee Browchuk

My choice is by no means a hot take (in fact, it’s a trendy choice). However, I can confidently say that I had one of the best meals of my life when having dinner at Loulou Paris last summer. As a first-time visitor to the city of light, this restaurant checked off all the boxes—incredible Eiffel Tower views, an idyllic Parisienne setting, and the dreamiest selection to feast upon. After many hors d’oeuvres, a few glasses of wine, and several helpings of fresh bread, my main course was the pipe rigate alla vodka. I know you’re probably thinking, “But Concetta, it’s literally just rigatoni ala vodka,” I swear there’s something extra special and delicious about this one. —Concetta Ciarlo, associate manager of events

Panda Panda

I stumbled upon Panda Panda with my colleague and friend Maya Layne on on our trip to Paris last summer after a late night on Canal Saint-Martin. We were ravenously hungry and the only place that was open and still had a table open was this place. We were so surprised when it was also the best meal we had our entire week in Paris. The dim sum and bao buns were super affordable for budget-friendly travelers like us. To ensure that the food was that good (and we didn’t just find it amazing because we were so hungry) we went back before we left Paris and we can assure that it passed the second round of our taste tests as well. —Irene Kim, Vogue Runway production and editorial coordinator

Ferdi is not your typical burger spot and that’s why I love it. For one, they only take reservations via text message. The restaurant space itself is so small that you’ll walk right by it if you’re not paying attention, and once inside you’ll find the walls around you filled with anything from stuffed animals to vintage toy cars. Still, there’s a reason why Kim Kardashians and other celebs claim it’s the best burger in Paris. Personally, it’s the special sauce they use that puts it in my number one spot. While famous for its burgers and fries, the churros are a must for dessert. —Taylor Lashley, social media manager

A friend and I visited this tasteful cabaret—where Beyoncé herself has shot a music video—and we were not disappointed. In fact, it was one of the highlights of our trip. The dancers, the choreography, the costumes—everything is sexy and fun, but elevated. (All the shoes worn on-stage are red-soled Christian Louboutins, no less.) —Christian Allaire

It’s depressing to be gluten-free in Paris. It felt like all the delicious croissants and people enjoying them were taunting me with their flaky, buttery-fingered joy—until I made a trip to the 6th’s Noglu bakery. They make the impossible happen: chocolate eclairs, Paris-Brest, and different types of croissants, all made in a 100 percent gluten-free facility so it’s safe to overindulge in one of everything on the menu. -Margaux Anbouba, senior beauty editor

On a trip to Paris this summer, Vogue Runway’s local Parisian critic Amy Verner took me to Cafe Kitsuné at the Tuileries Gardens. I’ll admit that I’ve never felt tempted to stop by the cafe which also has a location in the West Village in New York—and has several storefronts in Paris as well—but Tuileries Gardens outpost was so quiet and relaxing. It felt very French to sit amongst the locals on one of those tables overlooking the garden. -Irene Kim

I’m obsessed with La Mutinerie, the Parisian queer-run feminist bar that’s committed to keeping prices low and door entry free (and making all bar-related decisions as a nonhierarchical collective; now that’s what I call egalite!) -Emma Specter, culture writer

Where to Shop

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The art nouveau ceiling of Galeries Lafayette.

Photo: Getty Images

Located inside Dior’s recently opened flagship store on Montaigne Avenue, Maison Dior is a carefully curated extension of the heritage brand. A palette of red, black, and white hues inspired by the brand’s archive set the tone in the dining room. Of course, each place setting is adorned with Maison Dior tableware along with mixed and matched houndstooth chairs. For a taste of Dior, this hits the spot. —Elisée Browchuk

Lovers of history, prettiness, and paper should make the trek to Antoinette de Poisson. The shop—and the hidden courtyard it’s located in—is an oasis where it seems like time stands still. The company preserves the art of making hand-printed domino papers, featuring floral and geometric patterns. Popular in the 18th century, these sheets were used to cover books and small boxes. Antoinette de Poisson offers the same, plus, perfume, wallpapers, and objects for the home and table—all of which come wrapped in an aura of historical romance. —Laird Borrelli-Persson, archive editor

Sennelier Art Supply Store

For obvious reasons, Paris is a fashion lover’s paradise, but one of my favorite places to have a poke around is the historic Sennelier art supply store, a mere hop, skip, and a jump across the bridge from the Tuileries gardens. I may not be blessed with artistic talent, but after a trip to the Musée d’Orsay, I can pick up some handmade papers and their vibrant high-pigment oil pastels and briefly fancy myself as the next Degas. —Liam Hess

It’s almost 200 years old, but your first trip to Deyrolle in the Seventh Arrondissement always feels like a great discovery: Part taxidermy shop, part cabinet of curiosities, part museum, part gift-and-garden shop, it’s served as inspiration and fantastical wonderland for everyone from Breton, Dali, Damien Hirst, Sophie Calle, Wes Anderson, and a million others. Bring the kids. —Corey Seymour, senior editor

The most heavenly vintage jewelry shop with truly exquisite pieces from the big houses to the unsigned. It’s not for the faint of heart (or wallet) but even a window gaze is worth the time. —Daisy Shaw-Ellis

Michele Aragon is Aladdin’s cave of eclectic and elegant homewares in the 6th, a must-stop for anyone who loves a kilim-covered armchair. Just down the street from Michele Aragon is Simrane, France’s original Indian block print exporter with every style of paisley tablecloth your tablescape could desire. —Chloe Malle

I love Pascale’s jewelry, and where better to buy the Parisian’s pieces than her own boutique on Rue Mont Thabor. Almost all of her jewelry whisks me away on vacation—the shells, the delicate gold pieces, the color. —Daisy Shaw-Ellis

I learned about this Black-owned beauty store from my good friend Julee Wilson Warhem—she goes here when in town to discover new and exciting brands that haven’t quite made it to the US, but founder Anne-Marie Mendy’s story is even more rousing. She founded the store in 2009 to provide a much-needed space for Paris’s women of color to shop for hair, skin, and makeup products. Their specialty is catering to the curly and coily community and the staff is on-hand for product help and advice. —Margaux Anbouba

Dries van Noten

As an avowed believer in the gospel of Driesus Christ, I’ll always make a stop at the Belgian designer’s flagship Paris store—even if I’m not flush enough to actually buy anything. Sitting in a prime position on the Left Bank just over from the Pont des Arts, and with the best-stocked selection of his print-clashing pieces you’ll find anywhere in the world, entering the space feels like stepping into van Noten’s brilliant mind. —Liam Hess

The best shopping place is called Nuovo. It is a tiny vintage shop full of hot girl clothes. Basically, the owner doesn’t curate by labels but by taste. The prices are great, too. I got the most amazing leather jacket from there that made me look like Emmanuelle Seigner straight out of Frantic. —Liana Satenstein

French girl fashion lovers look no further than Jeanne Damas’s flagship store, Rouje. I always manage to find one (or three!) floral dresses that quickly become wardrobe staples. —Eliseé Browchuk

If you’re looking to do some home shopping in Paris and want an addition to the antique markets, I’d recommend Merci, an eclectic home store in the Marais district. I’ve known editors to build out their crockery collections over seasons of shows, and their glassware and linens are great, too. —Daisy Shaw-Ellis

Paris has an abundance of world-class department stores, including Le Bon Marche, La Samaritaine, and Printemps. I’d advise to go to all of them. But Galeries Lafayette will always hold a special place in my heart for its romantic steel-frame art nouveau glass dome by master Jacques Gruber, making it an architectural monument in its own right. —Elise Taylor

You’re going to want to block out at least an hour for combing through this color-coded shop. Gorgeous Union-Made frocks rub shoulders with Chanel blazers (is there anything more chic than Chanel previously loved by French women?), and the collection of gloves in all shades and materials will convince you that evening gloves could probably be worn in the day after all. —Margaux Anbouba

What to Do: The Best Museums and Activities

The Ultimate Paris Travel Guide As Curated By Vogue Editors

Alexander Spatari/Getty Images

The recently opened Pinault Collection is a must-visit upon every trip to Paris. Housed in the old bourse de commerce, a commodities trading facility, the grand building is the stately and impressive home to the unique collection of both established and emerging artists. The grand rotunda currently exhibiting an Urs Fischer work took my breath away. Plus, the Pinault is just a few steps from rue Saint Honoré, should you wish to do a bit of shopping post-visit. —Alexandra Michler, director of fashion initiatives

One of the great joys of Paris is its wealth of niche museums, and there’s nowhere greater—or more atmospheric—in that regard than the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, the museum of hunting and nature that is tucked away in a spectacularly beautiful hôtel particulier in the heart of Le Marais. The deliciously macabre displays of taxidermy are a highlight, but the museum also manages to avoid feeling too fusty by bringing in contemporary artists to produce works in conversation with its collections, from Sterling Ruby to Jeff Koons. No matter how many times you go, there’s always something there to surprise you. —Liam Hess

The Musee d’Orsay. Always the Musee d’Orsay. —Elise Taylor

Farmers Markets

Of course, there are many sublime restaurants to visit in Paris, but I always save at least one meal for the bounty I find at one of the open-air markets. Parisians know how to source the best of everything—from vegetables to cheese to chocolates—and it’s a joy to feel like a local and gather goods for a picnic in the park or a home-cooked meal at your Airbnb. I recommend Marché Raspail in the 6th! —Mai Morsch

Walk Around the Marais

Walking around Paris is by far my favorite activity, other than eating of course. Strolling around different neighborhoods and looking into shops or stopping into museums is just the best. My favorite walk is around the Marais with a stop to refuel midday at Mariage Freres for tea. It’s the most charming spot and they have all the greatest teas (and treats!) in the world. —Willow Lindley, accessories director

Wander Canal Saint-Martin

I love walking (and lounging) around Canal Saint-Martin, especially when the sun is out. Get a cappuccino at Ten Belles, and when hunger strikes stop by Du Pain et des Idées for one of their amazing escargot pastries. You’ll inevitably stumble upon other cute shops and restaurants as you go. —Ella Riley-Adams

Perched atop the Parisienne skyline is the magical Le Bristol Spa. It’s a serious treat and one I always look forward to indulging in at the end of couture week—especially for their all-natural Tata Harper skincare treatments. The famous rooftop pool resembles the interior of a yacht with teak decking and surrounding windows that offer a breathtaking 360 view of Sacré Coeur and the Eiffel Tower. The perfect way to fit in any sightseeing that you didn’t manage on foot! —Laura Paterson, experiences director

There’s no shortage of museums in Paris, but after hitting the nearby Louvre, a stop at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is also worthwhile. With an impressive array of antique to modern furniture (there are Louis XVI chairs and Charlotte Perriand shelves) and often marquee fashion exhibits. This upcoming, it’s an examination of fashion in sports, in honor of the 2024 Olympics.—Elise Taylor

Surround yourself with beauty and attend a ballet performance at the Palais Garnier, the Parisian landmark that’s iconic and, well, very much deserves to be for its opulent, Napoleonic style. —Elise Taylor

This red-velvet and soft pink hair salon feels straight out of a Slim Aarons still. Washes happen in a Birth of Venus-like half shell, which includes an incredible scalp massage, and try a French girl’s balayage or blowout to see what all the low-maintenance, high-glamour fuss is about. —Margaux Anbouba


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